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Trinity, Nuclear Craters, UFOS, and Elvis...

Boing Boing is featuring a great audience-funded piece of feature journalism here from Josh Ellis:

"Dark Miracle: Trinity, the Manhattan Project, and the Birth of the Atomic Age."

He asked folks to pay for his trip to Alamagordo on one of the two days a year that they open the site to the public.

As a former visitor to another nuclear weapons test site (though univited!) I can relate to the totally weird vibe these places attract. In 1983 four of us drove and hiked across 50 miles of desert to get to Yucca Flat at the Nevada Test Site -- the first incursion by activists into the nuclear test zone. It was a cratered moonscape of apocalyptic weirdness in itself. But to get there, we had to pass by Area 51 -- beloved of UFOlogists the world over. And damned if we didn't in fact see something strange there...

We'd chosen a route to the test site that would keep us well clear, (we had no idea what kind of security to expect out there) but we crossed one high ridge that gave us a view. There was something on the runway that none of us could make heads or tails of. A casual mention of this fact in a bar after we'd been arrested ended up finding its way into the UFO circles as "Greenpeace spotted an alien craft at Area 51."

Well, we hadn't. A few years later when pictures of the first Stealth Bombers were declassified, I recognised it immediately as the shape we'd seen down there at Area 51. And with the help of a UFO researcher who was a thorough fact-finder, we determined that in fact the early prototypes were being transferred from research duty at Area 51 to operational training at Nellis Air Force Base precisely during the month we were out there stopping a nuclear test.

I guess when you think about the meta-threats to human existence, UFOs and Nuclear weapons share some territory. And anything like the end of the world which the imagination can't really grapple rationally probably ends up in that place where there are no boundries on the possible, a place I call... The Elvis Zone.

--b

Comments

Ohh, Brian, I'll have to tell you about my trips (yes, plural) to the Trinity Site sometime! There are too many details for a blog comment, but the reason I had multiple trips was for nerd curiosity (the first time), and the next two times were to show non-Americans where a WMD was born.

It's so eerie there. I love the incredible NM desert (hey, it's where I'm from), but suddenly you're on an Air Force base, and there are MPs checking your car for... what? Anti-nuclear activists? *snicker*

I also took my husband to the science museum in Los Alamos. It's equally scary in an organized sort of way. It creeped us out so much that we got kind of silly. After stuff like this (that's my husband hugging the Fat Man bomb mock-up), and worse, I'm surprised they didn't throw us out. We got pretty noisy.

Man, I have some badass photos to show you, and stories to tell. They're not as cool as yours, though (hell, I'd have given anything to have been at the Nevada Site with you guys that day).

Best blog ever, Brian!

p.s. Ever been to the VLA in New Mexico? You know, speaking of aliens and all ;-)

Ok, Brian, this is the last time I'll ever spam your blog again, I promise (ha, ok, no), but I figured this was on-topic and not spam at all.

So, I'm convinced that the Reliable Replacement Warhead program is simply a sneaky, backdoor way to make new nuclear weapons, not just re-vamp the old ones.

More and more about the RRW program has come out in the media, and a recent LA Times article really lays it out:

The Bush administration Wednesday unveiled a blueprint for rebuilding the nation's decrepit nuclear weapons complex, including restoration of a large-scale bomb manufacturing capacity.

The plan calls for the most sweeping realignment and modernization of the nation's massive system of laboratories and factories for nuclear bombs since the end of the Cold War.

[snip]

But the administration blueprint is facing sharp criticism, both from those who say it does not move fast enough to consolidate plutonium stores and from those who say restarting bomb production would encourage aspiring nuclear powers across the globe to develop weapons.

Well, "duh" to that last paragraph, but it sums up one of the biggest dangers that the Bush administration poses to the globe.

Finally, here's some more on Bush and his new nuke toys:

The Defense Department's plan to detonate 700 tons of explosives at the Nevada Test Site is intended to simulate a nuclear blast as part of Pentagon research into development of low-yield nuclear weapons, a science advisory group charged Tuesday.

The Pentagon refused to confirm or deny the claim, made by the Federation of American Scientists, a Washington, D.C.-based liberal policy group opposed to development of nuclear weapons.

But if the charge is verified, debate over the blast seems certain to shift beyond environmental effects on Nevada to international concerns over nuclear weapons proliferation.

The FAS is a good group, and no friend of the Bush administration.

All of that is very sobering. Are we looking at the next Cold War, but with really pissed off terrorists thrown into the mix, with access to unsecured nuclear material? Dirty bombs and hardcore nukes, anyone?

It's very depressing and frightening.

Nope, never been to VeryLarge. But who needs to go looking for aliens off planet when, clearly, there are ambassadors among us. See, I've been to the Liberace Museum in Las Vegas and seen, yes, I swear, the Fur Piano (I think it's mink...)

No earthly imagination could have created such an artifact.

;-)

--b

Do you think Aliens would vote Republican?

gillo, I don't know if aliens would vote Republican or not, but I swear that Dick Cheney is an alien. I mean, look at him... and what's this "undisclosed location" stuff all about?

One thing that's obvious about Republicans is that they don't believe in the (Star Trek) "prime directive".

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